The Pyramid of Koh Ker

Koh Ker, formerly known as Chok Gargyar, served as one of the capitals of the Khmer Empire between 928 and 944 AD. King Jayavarman IV, who was originally from this region, was enthroned here in 928 after his victory over Angkor. The latter, the most famous capital of the empire, regained its status in 944. The ancient city of Koh Ker was built entirely within just 13 years, with construction concluding in 941—the year Jayavarman IV’s reign ended.

The grandeur of the site still impresses visitors today. Its defining symbol is the pyramid, or prang, built on a square base measuring 60 meters on each side and rising more than 36 meters high. The site currently features 16 temples and religious landmarks, all bearing the hallmark of Hindu influence typical of that era. The two most prominent monuments are the pyramid itself and the Prasat Thom temple.

Today, nature has fully reclaimed the area, with vegetation engulfing the ruins in this remote region in the far north of Cambodia. This natural overgrowth gives the site a unique and mystical charm. Unfortunately, for more than eight centuries following the fall of the capital, looters and treasure hunters exploited the site's isolation. Many structures were pillaged and damaged, leaving behind piles of bricks and sand that diminish their former majesty.

Prasat Thom

Located north of Koh Ker town and about 60 kilometers northeast of Siem Reap, the Prasat Thom complex extends over 800 meters in length and 150 meters in width. It encompasses the temple of the same name, the pyramid, and several other ancient structures.

Prasat Thom Temple was consecrated to Shiva in 921 AD by Jayavarman IV himself. Shiva, one of the three major Hindu deities of the Trimurti, represents transformative destruction. The temple entrance is guarded by a monumental sanctuary named Prasat Kraham, which once housed a giant statue (4 to 5 meters tall) of a dancing Shiva with five heads.

The temple itself is located on an island, accessible by a narrow dirt path that crosses a surrounding pond. Inside the temple’s antechamber lie the remains of a bovine statue on the ground. Scholars initially believed it to be Shiva mounted on his sacred bull, Nandi, but later reconsidered it to represent Yama, the god and judge of the dead in Hinduism, riding his buffalo. Shortly after 941, a statue of Jayavarman IV was installed facing this divine figure, symbolizing the king’s passage into the afterlife. This statue is now housed in the Guimet Museum of Asian Art in Paris, though the date of its removal from the temple remains unknown.

Within the main Prasat Thom enclosure are 21 brick sanctuaries, all dedicated to Shiva, as well as two ancient libraries. Researchers have noted the contrast between this densely constructed space and the following area, which is entirely dedicated to the pyramid of Koh Ker—immense, yet strikingly solitary.

The Prang

This six-tiered pyramid is known as a prang, a Thai term referring to a stupa set atop a pyramidal base. At the summit of the Koh Ker pyramid once stood a colossal linga—a phallic symbol representing Shiva—which has since vanished. Only the base remains, adorned with carvings of lions.

Now partially overtaken by lush greenery, the pyramid offers a breathtaking panorama from its summit, with sweeping views over the vast surrounding forests.