Nokor Bachey

The Hindu temple of Nokor Bachey is a cultural, historical, and religious site located in the Kampong Cham region, just 2 kilometers northwest of the city. This architectural treasure was built in the mid-12th century during the reign of Suryavarman II, one of the great kings of the Khmer Empire and the master builder behind the country’s most famous spiritual monument, Angkor Wat, which is dedicated to the god Vishnu.

Guardians, Lions, and Nagas

At the entrance to the four structures that form Nokor Bachey temple, statues symbolizing this religious tradition stand proudly. The two Dvarapalas, or gate guardians, were carved just a few centimeters from the roadway. Always found in pairs, the guardian on the left represents benevolence, while the one on the right embodies its malevolent counterpart. Following them, aligned symmetrically along the same axis, are six statues of lions—three on each side. Symmetry was paramount during the 12th century, and these lions stand guard to protect the sacred space from evil spirits. Behind the lions, eight fearsome multi-headed serpents, or nagas, take their place. In Hindu belief, nagas are revered as the guardians of the world's treasures.

Vishnu, Master of the Site

Although significantly damaged over the centuries, the remnants of Nokor Bachey still vividly testify to King Suryavarman II’s religious devotion. The king was a fervent worshipper of Vishnu, the protector god, who forms part of the divine Hindu triad known as the Trimurti, alongside Brahma, the creator, and Shiva, the destroyer. Everything built on this site is directly linked to Vishnu, who is sometimes referred to as Preah Norey in Khmer tradition.

The story connecting Vishnu to the nagas, present at the temple’s entrance, is fascinating. Although nagas are considered guardians of the world’s treasures, they are deeply despised by Garuda, Vishnu’s loyal mount and companion. Garuda—depicted with a human body combined with the head, beak, wings, and talons of an eagle—harbors eternal resentment towards the nagas, who are also his half-brothers. The nagas once imprisoned and mistreated Garuda’s mother in the underworld until he miraculously rescued her.

Vishnu appears twice within Nokor Bachey temple. One statue depicts him with four arms and hands, holding a conch shell—a symbolic representation of the Earth—above his head, a classic portrayal of the deity. A second, much rarer representation is housed in the temple’s fourth and final structure, where Vishnu is shown with eight interwoven arms and hands, offering a unique and striking depiction.