Oudong, the former capital of the kingdom

Located about 40 kilometers from Phnom Penh in Kandal Province, Oudong served as the royal residence and capital of Cambodia for over 250 years. Today, the glorious past of this ancient city is mainly reflected on a twin-peaked hill, which has become a monumental royal necropolis where several Cambodian sovereigns are laid to rest. Visiting Oudong Hill involves climbing numerous steps. While the ascent may seem a bit challenging, your effort will be richly rewarded with a spectacular view over the surrounding countryside, rice fields, and the Tonlé Sap River, before you wander through a site steeped in Cambodia’s history.

A brief history

Oudong was founded in 1601 by King Soriyopor (Barom Reachea IV). Later, King Ang Duong (1841–1850) enhanced the city by building canals, terraces, bridges, and hundreds of pagodas, turning it into a city that once amazed its visitors. In 1863, King Norodom I and Admiral Doudart de Lagrée signed a treaty placing Cambodia under French protection against Siam and Annam. In 1866, King Norodom I moved the royal court to Phnom Penh, designating it the new capital. Tragically, in 1977, Oudong was devastated by the Khmer Rouge regime. On one side of the hill, a memorial now houses the remains of hundreds of victims from that dark period.

Visiting Oudong

The larger side of the hill is home to stupas from different eras. The first, Chetdei Mouk Pruhm, houses the remains of King Monivong, who died in 1941. The central stupa, Trai Traing, adorned with four Bayon-style faces gazing toward Kandal Province in all directions, was built by King Norodom I in 1891 in honor of his father, King Ang Duong. The Damrei Sam Poan stupa, built in the 17th century, is dedicated to King Soriyopor. The most recent and largest stupa, built in 2002, was designed to house a sacred relic—an ancient bone of the Buddha—that was originally kept in a stupa near Phnom Penh’s railway station. Sadly, this sacred relic was stolen in 2013.

On the other side of the hill, visitors will find Preah Arthross Pagoda, featuring a large Buddha statue that unusually faces north instead of east, the traditional orientation. This ancient temple’s name, meaning "Temple of the Eighteen Corners," refers to the eighteen cubits of its structure. According to legend, during the 13th century, a Chinese emperor sent envoys across Asia to identify potential threats. When they arrived at Oudong, they observed a mountain with an opening at its summit. Interpreting the landscape as the shape of a naga (a mythical multi-headed serpent in Buddhist mythology) and witnessing the wealth of Khmer society, they concluded that the Khmers were already extremely powerful, capable of summoning a naga, and thus strong enough to dominate the world. Fearing conflict, the Chinese emperor requested permission to build a temple at the opening, with a Buddha statue facing China to protect his empire. Thus, the Arthross temple was built and named for its unique structure.

Behind it lies the Chker Amao stupa, named after a revered and intelligent dog belonging to a great monk. Further northeast along the ridge, three small viharas line up: Vihear Preah Ko (Sacred Cow), Vihear Preah Keo (Sacred Precious Stone), and Vihear Prak Neak (Buddha Protected by a Naga), where visitors can admire a statue of the sacred cow, golden Buddhas, and stunning frescoes.

This part of the hill also holds a remarkable surprise—the small Ta Sann Mosque. It stands as a testament to the great tolerance of King Ang Duong, who generously granted 50 square meters of land to Imam Sann, a Muslim from Champa, the ancient Islamic empire that once shared Indochina with the Khmers. The king and the imam, who became friends, often engaged in discussions about the dharma of their respective religions.

At the foot of the hill, Vipassana Dhura Pagoda is part of a large meditation center that hosts many Buddhist monks throughout the year. Glittering in gold on the outside, the prayer hall, featuring a large Buddha statue, is beautifully decorated with vibrant frescoes inside. If you are not inclined to climb the hill, visiting this serene monastic complex, complete with ponds and its magnificent pagoda, is a highly rewarding alternative.

How to get there

From Phnom Penh, Oudong can be reached by tuk-tuk, taxi, private car with driver, or even by boat.

Opening Hours

Oudong is open to visitors from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM.