The temples of Phnom Banon and Ek Phnom are the two principal religious buildings in Battambang and its surroundings. In this city nicknamed the city of a thousand pagodas, these two temples stand out for their uniqueness. They are situated at the northern and southern extremities of Cambodge's second city. Visiting both will take you a good half-day if you wish to combine them, or a full day if you prefer to take your time. A scenic route that can allow you to traverse the picturesque surrounding countryside and make stops at other points of interest.

Known for its authentic and resplendent colonial architecture, the serene city of Battambang also distinguishes itself through its spiritual dimension. Countless religious buildings adorn the city, providing much to learn about Cambodge's history, first Hindu then Buddhist. Here are two temples blending these two religions and among the most important and majestic in the region.

The 358 steps of Phnom Banon

The temple of mount Phnom Banon, located some twenty kilometers south of Battambang, sits atop this eponymous hill. Its construction lasted more than a century and was completed during the reign of Jayavarman VII in the twelfth century. Three sandstone towers still stand today, connected by galleries set on the cardinal points. The bas-reliefs and portals may evoke the architecture of certain Angkorian temples. A pagoda named Banon Leu, situated southeast of the hill, is worth visiting. It still contains a former vihara of great beauty, a Sanskrit term representing a dwelling place for monks and nuns—a monastery in essence. To reach the mountain's summit and admire the ruins of Phnom Banon temple, you must climb the 358 steps, steep as they are, of the hill. It is worth the effort, because once at the top, and in addition to contemplating this religious edifice, you will have a splendid view over all the surrounding countryside.

The diversity of Ek Phnom

Ek Phnom, located some twelve kilometers north of Battambang, unites within itself a Buddhist pagoda, an immense Buddha statue, and a Hindu temple: the Ek Phnom temple. This temple, dating from the eleventh century, the Angkorian era, was partially destroyed. Today only ruins remain to explore. It still preserves magnificent pediments and bas-reliefs testifying to that period, although looters stole certain treasures over the past century.

A few meters before the temple stands an immense pagoda, far more recent and magnificently colored. While classically styled, its size surprises and allows for interior frescoes of remarkable beauty. Beside the pagoda sits a gigantic Buddha statue. This one, sculpted in the Abhaya Mudra posture, right hand raised, palm facing outward, left arm at the body's side, represents the mudra of fearlessness.