About twelve kilometers southwest of Battambang, along National Road 57, the hill of Phnom Sampov rises with its distinctive silhouette above the rice paddies. Standing approximately 140 meters high, it owes its name—meaning "mountain shaped like a ship"—to its elongated profile visible from afar. The site combines Buddhist sanctuaries, panoramic views across the plain and a memorial linked to the Red Khmer period.

Why visit Phnom Sampov

Phnom Sampov brings together three dimensions of contemporary Cambodge in one location. It is first and foremost an active religious site, dotted with stupas, temples and Buddha statues. It is then a vantage point overlooking the Battambang countryside and its vast rice paddies. Finally, it is a place of remembrance from the Red Khmer years, when the caves served as execution sites. The hill is also home to one of the country's most famous bat departures, observable each evening at dusk.

History of the hill

Most of the sanctuaries visible today were constructed in the 1960s, during a phase of religious development of the site. The most notable stupa was erected in memory of the wife of General Lon Nol, who led Cambodge between 1970 and 1975. The Rumsay Sok temple is associated with the founding legend of the ship-shaped hill.

Under the Red Khmer regime (1975-1979), several caves at Phnom Sampov were used as execution sites: the bodies of regional victims were thrown into them, sometimes after being killed on the spot. A memorial gathering skulls and bones has been established nearby. Two artillery pieces remain at the summit, witnesses to the battles waged by the Cambodian army and Vietnamese forces against the last Red Khmer pockets, a conflict that did not truly end until 1996.

What to see on site

The sanctuaries at the summit

The upper plateau is home to several active temples, stupas and oratories, featuring Buddha statues in various poses. Inside a cave, a large reclining Buddha is the most striking image on the site. Another statue depicts the Buddha standing teaching his disciples. The summit remains a pilgrimage site visited by Cambodian devotees.

The monkey caves

Part of the hillside is inhabited by troops of macaques that feed on offerings left by visitors. Access is via the back road, turning right at the junction. Keep your belongings secure: these primates will readily snatch bags and food.

The bat cave

At the foot of the hill, a cavity shelters a bat colony whose dusk departure constitutes one of the highlights of the visit. For several tens of minutes, thousands of bats take flight in a long undulating ribbon to hunt insects above the rice paddies. The phenomenon occurs every evening, with no reservation required.

The memorial caves

A staircase of 700 steps leads to the caves used as execution sites under the Red Khmer regime. The climb is demanding but opens at the top to a sweeping view of the Battambang plain. The memorial gathering the remains of victims is visited in quiet reflection: it is a place of remembrance before being a viewpoint.

When to visit

The site can be visited year-round, but the dry season (November to March) remains the most comfortable for climbing the steps. To enjoy both the sanctuaries and the bat departure, plan to arrive in mid-afternoon: you will have time to reach the summit, return, and then settle in front of the cave before sunset, which marks the beginning of the spectacle.

Practical information

• Access: open daily from morning until dusk.
• Entrance fee: modest, payable on site in dollars or riels.
• Duration of visit: allow 2 to 3 hours on site to combine the summit, caves and bat observation.
• To bring: water, closed-toe shoes, flashlight for the caves, clothing covering the shoulders for the sanctuaries.
• Note: do not feed the monkeys and keep your bags closed.

How to get there

Phnom Sampov is located approximately 12 km southwest of Battambang, via National Road 57. From the city, the tuk-tuk is the simplest solution, for a round trip with waiting time. It is also possible to rent a scooter for greater flexibility, particularly to stay until the bat departure.

Battambang is situated 300 km northwest of Phnom Penh, via Highway 5 which skirts the Tonlé Sap to the west. The journey from the capital is made by bus or shared minivan, in approximately half a day depending on traffic conditions.

Nearby

Battambang itself deserves one to two days: French colonial architecture, contemporary art studios, outings in the surrounding countryside. Further afield, the Bayon temple and the Terrace of Elephants at the Angkor site can be reached in a few hours' drive. To continue in pristine nature, the coffee plantations of Mondulkiri offer a complete contrast to the rice paddies.

Frequently asked questions

Plan your trip

To incorporate Phnom Sampov into an itinerary combining Battambang, Angkor and the coast, consult our Cambodge travel suggestions and adapt them according to your interests.