13 Nov. 2019Just a stone's throw from the Central Market, in downtown Phnom Penh, Orussey Market stands as the largest and one of the oldest in the capital. Each day, thousands of shoppers come through to pick up their daily needs. Food, household products, toys, clothing, and countless other items are available from stalls spread across three levels. The interior of the market begins to empty each day around 5:30 PM, but that's when the real magic happens outside. Along the edge of the massive parking lot, by the roadside, a multitude of bars and street food restaurants set up shop, staying bustling well past midnight.

Night falls over the Orussey neighborhood. The last stalls close, shutters come down, the three levels empty until tomorrow morning at 5 AM. The final vehicles parked on the rooftop and plaza lots drive away, making room for the new players of the evening. The stage is set as the first restaurateurs arrange their blue and red plastic chairs, set the tables, light the gas burners and prep their ingredients for the night ahead. Crowds spill onto the long sidewalk running the full length of this sprawling plaza—a parking lot by day, an open-air dining scene by night. Across the way, Street 282 remains thick with aggressive headlights and horn blasts during rush hours. The transformation is stark when you cross it. Once you've crossed that threshold, the overall vibe becomes distinctly more festive and good-natured.

Fried rice, king of the night

Travelers with a keen eye are usually drawn directly to one of the numerous street food spots set up around the plaza. Here young cooks, facing the sidewalk, energetically shake their woks to the rhythm of music blaring from the restaurant's speakers. Fried rice is the specialty, the grains flying high before cascading back into the center of the wok. Dusted with the spices and condiments the recipe demands, it's quickly handed to the owner, perched on a small platform behind, who adds the meat of your choice. The staff's energy is impressive, and dishes come out in seconds. You'll wait no more than two minutes before being served. True street food.

Most establishments serve fried rice accompanied most often by beef, but you'll find other local dishes to savor during your evening. Grilled meats from the barbecue: beef, chicken, pork, even fish, papaya salads with crab, a specialty of the Southeast Asian region, stir-fried noodles, and even fruit shakes for dessert.

A festive bar

The meal, remarkably affordable at anywhere from one to five dollars depending on your choice of dish, can sometimes feel rushed for travelers spending time in Cambodia who want to linger and soak it all in. This plaza has understood that perfectly. One establishment, unmistakably obvious among the cluster of restaurants facing Orussey Market, stands out. A bar you'll notice instantly, its dazzling luminosity impossible to miss. Look closer and your ears will catch it too. Music is very much part of the experience in this place, adorned with glowing garlands as "walls"—pink ones, no less. Beer and cocktail enthusiasts can spend a pleasant stretch of the evening here, accompanied by music that for once isn't overwhelming. The perfect way to cap off this charming evening, without breaking the bank.

Thibault BourruA passionate lover of literature and Asia, Thibault shares his experiences through his writing.