07 Oct. 2019After exploring a selection of activities in Mondulkiri province last week, we turn our attention today to its northern neighbour, Ratanakiri. Bordering Vietnam and Laos, this province is equally rich with fabulous natural sites, offering an authentic and singular charm, alongside numerous ethnic minorities whose distinct ways of life and cultures set them apart. As with Mondulkiri, the ideal window for visiting Ratanakiri spans November through May.

Ratanakiri's ochre earth represents an iconic image of Cambodge's geological diversity. These expanses, spread across the highland valleys, can transform into clouds of reddish dust as the monsoon winds approach. Serene during the rest of the year, these plains offer, in each season, their own distinct beauty—a sublime and captivating vision of the landscape.

This first impression will mark your arrival in this remote corner of Cambodge, an ideal destination for venturing off the beaten path. Here, mass tourism does not exist. Upon arriving in the capital Banlung, you'll encounter Khmers and residents from ethnic minorities, particularly at the city's bustling market where vendors from these communities can share advice and insights. As you venture deeper into the surrounding countryside and jungles, home to some 240 villages, the demographic density gradually fades. Here are several activities worth experiencing during your visit to Ratanakiri.

A Landscape Defined by Nature

Your first impressions of Ratanakiri's countryside will be shaped by these rolling hills of ochre earth, ringed by hillsides and mountains that dominate the terrain. After your stop in Banlung, the province's largest city, you'll have the chance to venture deeper, to move beyond what glimpses from a vehicle along national highways can offer, and to uncover nature in all its richness. While deforestation poses a challenge to the region, industrialization remains far from tarnishing the landscape.

Just 5km east of Banlung's centre lies Yeak Laom volcanic lake, formed within a crater dating back over 700,000 years. The journey can be made by bus in 10 minutes, or for hiking enthusiasts—a wonderful addition to any Ratanakiri stay—the walk takes roughly thirty minutes, allowing you to enjoy the fresh air. Numerous activities await around the lake beyond swimming: picturesque picnics along the shore, or peaceful boat rides. You can continue your day with an energetic walk through lush jungles that blanket the ochre lands and lead to the lake's shoreline. A trail has been established through one such jungle for circling the lake and spotting exotic wildlife like brilliantly coloured parrots! Here, too, you may encounter your first ethnic minority community: the Tampuens. Numbering around 1,500, they are distributed across five villages to the west and north of the lake or along the approach road.

Ratanakiri is equally renowned for its numerous waterfalls hidden beneath the various canopies sheltering the region. The most celebrated among them are Kachang and Katieng, which originate from the same stream: the Kotung. Located 7km southwest of Banlung, these two impressive cascades descend in sequence across a few hundred metres, Kachang upstream and Katieng downstream. Beyond their striking appearance and enchanting roar, these natural wonders are ideal spots for picnicking and cooling off during the dry season, whether in the shade or in the pools formed by the falling water.

Jungle Treks: Meeting Local Ethnicities and Beyond

Visits to these waterfalls, like any nature-based activity during your Ratanakiri stay, will bring you closer to the province's ethnic villages. Virachey National Park stands as one of the region's flagship natural areas. Its environmental diversity—from rivers to lakes, jungles to mountains—shelters unique ethnic populations eager to share their culture with you. To accomplish this, numerous treks are organized throughout the park, ranging from a single afternoon to ten days. These adventures take you into these communities, offering opportunities to converse with inhabitants, share meals, discover values and principles passed down through generations, and observe daily activities firsthand.

These jungle expeditions also introduce you to a celebrated animal population of this Cambodge region: gibbons. Guided by strict protocols that protect the primates from disturbance, treks carry you deep into the national park's jungles. You can shadow gibbon families, learn to understand them better, and distinguish their remarkably distinctive calls.

Thibault BourruA passionate devotee of letters and Asia, Thibault shares his experiences through his writing.